Відео

Testing is relatively the same for any system. Powers.... grounds.... signal... Thing is how signal operate is the funky part. Because things maybe ground side or high side switched on /off. Or maybe even a PWM pulse width modulated or CAN control area network. That's why obtaining theory in operation is imperative vehicle to vehicle

@@partsshooter awesome thank you, ill try the cheapest route. I'm going to try replacing that whole module that's only $46 at O'Reilly's and also the relay and see if that fixes it. this is been going on for a while. The fans never kick on with high speeds in 2010 sienna, AC only gets cold when we start driving down the highway. at idle, it warms up. only stays minimally cool. figured it's a fan issue. i seem to remember that sometimes the fan motors have to kick on really fast and sound loud when in park, and they don't anymore.

@danhouston2715 The relay isn't bad if the fans operate. The relay only supplies 12v to the fans. There is no need to replace that. Try this... disconnect the "coolant temperature sensor" for the engine, and the fans should operate max speed. If they are the speed of what you normally see, then check for obstruction in the front of the condenser. Make sure you have good air flow. Make sure the fins aren't closed off. Check your freon level. the low side should be around 40-45 psi activated. If too low, add a couple of Oz of freon. What can happen if the pressure becomes low then the high side maybe low and fan speed may not call for high speed

They should be Changed when they fail.... the oil control valve term is generally referred to the VVT variating valve timing component. It control the duty cycle for vvt sprocket, which alerts the cam timing

@@partsshooter thanks!

Please... for the life of me, explain how an o-ring causes fluctuation of data? I beg you to elaborate

I typically misread... I do apologize if I did. But text offers no context, so Im asking for clarity

@@partsshooter When you replace components (especially with higher mileage) it is imperative to replace the seals that go to the components. The O-Ring abrases around the outer diameter of the magnet and provides that critical seal for oil seeping through. If it is even slightly worn, it will bleed and clog the Adjuster magnet again. I am surprised that your Intake readings were coming out better after you did this; as the majority of the time the phaser is usually damaged as well. You can tell if the phaser is damaged by "how far out" the center pin to it sticks out. Looks like the Primer to a rifle cartridge. Should be "flush". If it is protruding out, then the spring mechanism has failed and it will need to be replaced. Don't know your predicament, however in most cases, once you hear the increased clacking - more problems arise. There are numerous components and practices that increase the happening of this: 1) PCV (even a slow failure) 2) Purge Valve (vacuum leak) or any other vacuum leak over a longer duration. 3) Oil change durations Euro cars take so much coddling and preventative maintenance, and even then things go awry... Hope you get more life out it 👍

Explain

Totally discretionary.... it just go on easier

You did all that and can't line up the marks... you pulling my leg right???🫣😅

@@partsshooterRight 😂. I think i have more wrong with it but can’t seem to find any answers!!!

@kylarae8484 what's happening? Be real detailed, and maybe I can help. Write a lot if need be

Gas

They're not... like any chevy the repair is pretty straight forward. You'll simply remove the 4x 10mm bolts at the top of valve cover and 4x at the base. Then use a 4mm hex to remove 8x hex bolts at the injector itself. Take a pry bar or line screw driver rocks injector rail upward. It'll come out. JUST MAKE SURE THE O-RING ARE REMOVE FROM INJECTOR FEED BORE, THEY CAN GET STUCK. or you'll damage them like I did

I damaged the o-ring because I didn't remove the o-rings from bore, installed the rail back on causing them to rip! That's why I damaged them

​@@partsshooter thanks ive seen these pumps fail but they have never moved the reluctor wheel for me and i was curious how that rail came apart great video and advice!

Cool, now you can add me to your stereotype.... what did I say that was wrong? Please I like for you to quote me

@@partsshooter You know what you said. If you think it was an appropriate thing to say then that tells me everything.

@itsjust_deanna exactly.... you don't know what I said or have an issue with what I said! You're just here seeking attention. Get lost. You messed up your life, not me. When you have a genuine gripe, come back, and we can talk, but don't come here with selective outrage just because you need substance in your life. Hit my dislike button and carry on...

Did you watch the entire video?

That wouldn't work... just as fuel trims have to be forced reset, this is that same scenario, but with initialization added

However... to meet you in the middle, maybe shorting the terminals after disconnect MAY do something

Sounds almost like an old air compressor so thought maybe pcv but unplugged it and still got the noise

Actually kinda sounds like an electric can opener

Awesome thanks

A crappy one 😆 but it work

Tell me about it

Does it run bad during start up? How was your oil quality?

Misfire, have you taken out sparkplugs and looked at them, maybe time for new coilpacks n plugs, also if you got a pressure tester for valves whilst you got sparkplug out, May aswell test cylinders 👊

This car hasn't come back just so you know. Been 1yr

Real main seal leaks are bad with these..I have an 09 same probs..

Try dropping the subframe on the passenger side to see if you can get a good angle. You're in a tough spot here. I do believe you'll have more room when dropping the engine that way

Trust me... I curse! Thanks for the comment

Thanks

Can you provide more detail what you got going on and what you tried doing to resolve this issue, if you need additional help that is

Yes... very